"Sentiero Ettore Castiglioni" and "Sentiero dell'Ideale" via ferrata paths (Sept. 12, 1999)

This is a very hard day. The long walk from Rif. S. Agostini to Madonna di Campigilio takes me about 11-12 hours with frequent change of altitude.

The long and rugged Catena d'Ambiez, which stretches South from the Cima Tosa forming the western flank of the Valle d'Ampbiez, seems to preclude any possibility of a direct link between the Agostini and XII Apostoli Mountain-Hut (13), situated on the opposite side. But the specially equipped "Sentiero E. Castiglioni" (The "E. Castiglioni" Path, 1-11), traversing the Boccetta dei Due Denti (1), satisfies this need and enables mountaineers therefore to avoid the traverse by way of the Bocca d'Ambiez.

The starting point of the route can be reached from the Agostini Mountain-Hut in less than one hour. It is situated at the base of the Cima d'Agola, where a bronze plaque dedicated to Ettore Castiglioni is placed (3). The first part of the itnerary takes place in the steep gorge which separate the Cima d'Agola from the crest of the same name. THis is a very hazardous route requiring strong nerves, comparable only to the Oliva De Tassis path on the Bocchette Alte, and involving the ascent of smooth and very exposed rock-faces (2) by means of long metal ladders (about 300 steps). From the Bocchette del Due Denti at 2959m., sweeping views are suddenly opened out on the western side, as far as the glaciers of the Adamello-Presanella range (12). The ensuing descent down the Vedretta di Pratofiorita and over the morainic scree does not present any difficulties, and the route ends at the XII Apostoli Mountain-Hut (13).

The Garbari or XII Apostoli Mountain-Hut, 2489m., is dedicated to the mountaineers Carlo and Giuseppe Garbari. The name XII Apostoli (Twelve Apostles) given to the hut derives from the twelve characteristic small rock pinnacles, the results of a millennial process of erosion, which are to be seen just a few minutes' walk from the hut. Nearby the hut there is also a small chapel (14) (it's basically a cave on the rock wall) dedicated to those died in the mountaineering. To the rear of the hut the desolate and greymorainic ampitheatre is encircled by the peaks of the Cima d'Ambiez, the Cima d'Agola and Cima Pratofiorito (15), which from this point do not appear overhanging and awesome as they do from the Agostini Hut.

From the Hut I'm following part of "Sentiero dell'Ideale", climbing over Bocchette del Camosci, 2784m., descent down the Vedretta (glacier) del Camosci at the foot of rock-walls of Cima Tosa and Crozzon di Brenta (16). After crossing the glacier (Attention: this requires all the necessary equipment), I tried to climb to the Bocca d'Ambiez. The very steep path (17,18) presents some real problem as loose stone keeps rolling down. Anyway I reached the Bocca di Ambiez, 2871m (Pic. 19 And 20 are the views from the Bocca towards west and east, respectively) and descend by the same route (the descent towards east will lead to the Agostini Hut). The descent path 327 (21) joins the Martinazzi Path just under the north ridge of Crozzon di Brenta, after passing which the the mountain-hut swims into view (22). The path crosses the Val Brenta (23) and ascends to the Brentei Mountain-Hut (2175m) in a short of time.

The return to Madonna di Campiglio (1514m) involves mountain paths 391 and 317, and then a walk through the woods, through the Casinei and Vallesinella with its roaring waterfalls.


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Copyright by Lu Wenyun